Fashion not Commerciality

This article was actually published here.

As the lights dim and the thumping music begins I prepare myself for the familiar thrill of Fashion Pakistan Week.

The week, for me is always bittersweet. I love fashion and yet so little about FPW is truly about fashion, it's about clothes.

It's about looking pretty rather than making a statement.

It's about showing outfits that will sell rather than fashion that means something.

While I sit a few feet away from what is nothing short of wearable art I can hear jeering and laughing. The well-heeled members of our esteemed fashion fraternity point at the models and crack jokes.

And why? Because what the designer created was not pretty.

But true fashion is about taking a risk and creating something personal - and that does not necessarily mean something pretty. The constant garbled malarkey in the fashion industry of delicate. feminine draping with intricate embellishments has defined a monotone aesthetic that is almost impossible to challenge.



In a way the purpose of fashion is directly at odds with one of the fundamentals of Pakistani culture. While fashion says "push boundaries", our culture has ingrained in to our psyche "don't rock the boat"

In a piece for Dawn style writer Salima Fareesta says of designer Fahad Hussayn:


Fahad sometimes has a tendency to let the drama of his creative vision get the better of him. He is best when he reins in his inner goth a little but didn’t do so this time around.

A reined in fashion show is not art - only clothes. Beautiful clothes, but nothing more.



Taking a risk, making a statement, being different and even being laughed at - much like Day Two's mens wear collection by new designer Abdul Samad is how trends are born.

Disliking Abdul Samad's aesthetic is different from discouraging where that aesthetic is coming from. His undoubtedly unusual menswear collection lacked cohesiveness but was daring in its approach.
Fashion week is a place to embrace the strange and spurn the dull - not the opposite.

When fashion journalist Zurain Imam agreed to wear a custom made jacket by Samad he said he wanted to encourage more eccentricity in the fashion industry.

"Everyone tries to play it safe," he says, "but fashion is about self-expression. It is about having fun. What you show on the catwalk is not supposed to be what you stock at stores - you are supposed to be creative."



But fashion that drives change in clothing, or expresses them – is about giving people what they did not know they wanted. Remaking something that already exists, more of the same will keep Pakistani fashion two steps behind the rest of the world. If you wait for something to be a trend before indulging in it (hello, crop tops) you are no market leader.

How many white on white ball gowns/lehngas/anarkalis have we clapped for over the years?

Yes, those specific pieces may be well constructed but are they interesting? Is it important that they exist in the world?



Seeing a piece of clothing that reflects how you’ve been feeling, in a way you didn’t even articulate to yourself until you saw it, is what compels you to buy something.

That’s why Dior’s New Look, and Armani’s suits, and Chanel’s little tweed jackets, are in museums everywhere. They perfectly defined a time or feeling in a radical new way.

Of course, part of the problem is the economy. The number of designers is increasing, while buying power of customers remains the same. The competition causes most designers to retreat to safety.

Retailers want what "sells".

They forget that what sells today was unfashionable a few years ago. But only taking a risk can result in that unique vision that combines art and style. You have to be willing to fail in order to really succeed.

A old-fashioned aesthete could argue that the role of the artist is to create beauty but life and art messy, ambiguous and complex. The contemporary fashion of modern day Pakistan must reflect the times we live in - the ugliness, the horror and the occasionally bizarre - and help us to see the beauty in it all.

Only then, can museums display local fashion with as much consideration as they do art.

White, White Everywhere!

White is termed the colour of summer and looks like designers too it much too seriously this time.

White is making a statement all over the ramp. It's no secret that Karachi is obsessed with white but Telenor Fashion Pakistan Week 15 took it to a whole new level.

Nida Azwer: 

The collection consisted of light hues of grey, beige and black but white stood on its own. It was visible as embroidery, printed organza and solid separates.

My favorite was a monochrome look with a black jumpsuit and a white laser cut bolero which
looked trés chic and quite a trail blazer.

Lala Textiles

The collection aimed at showcasing disparate ways of styling lawn but the collection lacked luster.  Their in house designers used white for solid palette tops.

Fnk Asia

Quite surprisingly Fnk Asia left behind their forte traditional, tribal colours and silhouettes  and opted for a strong white palette. It had a boho chic element to it with lot's of lacy work, some fringes here and there and detailing at the back.

Huma Adnan brought the sexy backs back on the ramp.

Amir Adnan

Amir Adnan showed his Menswear collection for grooms which were high on finesse and richness. The fittings should have been better. Here is how he infused the white element in his collection. The double layered kurtas were definitely something to look out for.

In the tale of hits and misses, Zaheer Abbas gave #TFPW15 a definite hit. With florals blooming over white, flowing silhouettes, well tailored harem pants, crop tops and rich use of net, the collection was a powerful one. Undoubtedly one that would celebrated around the year.

Voluminous, shaadi wear, silks, chiffons tried and tested silhouettes and a strong base of white with embellishments in gold were seen in the collection by Gul Ahmad. Mostly known for day wear, Gul Ahmad made a sincere attempt to step into festive wear. Dhoti shalwars, anarkali frocks, fitted tunics and a gown pretty much sum up the collection.

I found the anarkali frock rather bland and not exactly fitting for the ramp. It definitely was an outfit that needed to be edited out.

Photo Credits: Movie Shoovy (Different Thinking) - Tapu Javeri

Denim Desires

Denims are the absolute fundamentals of a wardrobe. The most cherished of fabrics and most versatile of them too, denim is the ultimate go-to for a styling solution. We have many high street brand dealing with denims which include Stoneage and Levi's among others. However, plain denim jackets, shorts,vests, and jeans may seem bit faded now (even if they're darkest of indigo) because Arsalan Iqbal's capsule collection 'Desirably Distressed' is out!

Arsalan Iqbal is known for his Menwear especially sherwanis and wedding wear. However, this collection, which is denim based has something for both the sexes. It has personalised jackets, jeans, shorts and acessories that can satiate even the strongest of indigo-tinged cravings

The collection was featured in the Paperazzi Magazine on 22nd March 2015.

Well, the photo shoot wasn't less of a price of art than the collection itself. It feature models Mohammad Wajahat Nazeer and Fayezah Ansari sporting some really experimental and innovative pieces. 

Well, coming to the point of whether this collection would trend or not, the answer is definitely a YES! After the recent success of Nine Lines and the response to Coco by Zara ShahJehan, it's clear that the young (or those young at heart) are ready to experiment with their looks. The versatility and wearabilty of denim would also be a major factor under consideration.

Silhouettes have definitely gone up both for men and women, and shorts are the rage this summer.

(However, please ensure that your legs are a bit less hairy otherwise it would definitely cease to be a fashion statement.)

 I can't get this corset-like top. I hope they launch their tee-shirt line real soon because this is definitely not wearable in Pakistan. The lowers are absolutely drool-worthy if you're into quirky dressing.

Other items from scintillating and striking photo shoot are below.

Well the conspicuous background is courtesy Karachi based Graffiti artist, Sanki, who is quite well-known to those who have an eye for art. I first came across him in an article in Dawn that read 'Don't Call me Banksy' and as soon as I set eyes on the shoot I knew who the maestro was behind it and my guess was soon confirmed. He also customised the jackets apart from turning the roof top primatic under the theme of 'Subwey Tunnel Giraffti'.

The bags were from 'Baji Kay Bastay’. This a charming initiative by an entrepreneur called Amra Khan, who sells the ethnic hand bags, purses and wallets. Amra has been stocking from quite some while at Arsalan's store in Lahore and it wasn't much of a surprise that they both paired for creating the master pieces. 

Read more about this collection from Sultan Abdul Haseeb Here.

Photographer: Fayyaz Ahmed

Hair & Makeup: Nighat Misbah @ Depilex - Beauty Clinic & Institute

Musings: Running Away

During my school days, when I got to know the concept about fight and flight, I could easily place myself in the later.

I was always a runner when it came to relationships. When things started getting serious I began doubting my commitments. The word 'permanent' was never for me and maybe won't ever be. Those perfect relationships scare me. I can't handle the intensity. I opt for running away. I'm of the types who wouldn't want anyone to build his/her around them; the typical down-to-earth, practical, career-first kind of girl. What if they couldn't fit in my plans? Maybe I'll go abroad, travel the world or never leave my home town. How can I expect them to adjust for me? How would I detach myself from them then?

Thus I start those small fights, those skirmishes, to get him over the edge. Maybe he'll pick up the signs and leave. He'll back off. I can't push anyone away. No. That's not me. I distance people. I stay away. Black them out. It makes them blameless. The blames on me. It's always on me. I'm not the best of the communicators when it come to relationships. And it's much more painful than a real fight. The guilt, it remains, lingering there, for a long, long time. I can't shake it off. It's like the thorn. It's constantly pricking and it won't come out. There's no way out. 

Do I regret running away? Yes.
Because the pain just keeps accumulating. I miss him but I know what I did was for the better. That's the only solace but it's never enough. We were once inseparable and now it's like we never knew each other. That head on my shoulder during the crisis at his home. How can I ever be able to forget that? Those tears were just for me to see. Only I was the one who was allowed to penetrate the shield. Would I ever be able to forget that? 

I was always a runner when it came to relationships. That's why I turned to material things for comfort and peace of mind. They never questioned me. They never expected anything from me. Those Sachi and Khaadi and Micheal Kor aren't anything yet they are everything. They are my substitute to all the humans I have distanced myself from. 

Would it always remain like this? I don't know. Maybe I'll learn from my mistakes. But haven't I already learnt to live alone? Is it possible to unlearn?  

Silky Silk

Silk has definately made a come back this Eid season (is it was ever out)!
Silk has the first-look-luxury-factor that other fabrics fail to provide. Apart from the fabric's magnificent beauty and lustrous softness, it can put out into an attire in a countless ways. It's impossible to go wrong using a silk dress.

That said, every single woman would prefer to look terrific in an event. Silk will not only appear appealing on any lady but is also generally fashionable. It is possible to in no way go wrong using a silk dress.

Sana Safinaz recently lauched their luxury eid collection. The sultry nature of silk paired with dark and light hues alike are enough to fulfull the glamour desire of any lady. Not surprisingly they were entirely sold-out hours after the launch.
How one wishes that these prints had luxe stiched versions!
Here are some designs to die for.

Fall This Time

International and in-country trends couldn't be more contradictory. A cursory look at the on-going fashion weeks or those in the recent past are enough to supplement this statement. Inspired by labels like FnkAsia, Khaadi, Deepak Perwani, Riswan Behg and 9Lines fashion scene in Pakistan can be summed up as quirky and fun while the international scene is leaning towards pragmatism.

International Scene

Sober is definitely the new sexy. Most high-street labels e.g. River Island are going vintage. Hues like brown, black, nude and grey are the 'in' stuff; especially 'Grey'.

  
Monotonous, androgynous designs are bound to rule this Fall. Some trends like cluctches are categorically to be shown the way out.
(Details to be featured in my next blog 'Fall for Her')

National Scene

The national scene is going in exteme anti-parallel to it's counterparts. Bold, quirky, swaglicious  and riot of colours are exactly the words which would describe it.

  The creative guys at 9Lines are definately explroring the fashion scene with great success. Here is a peak into their ventures.

  Picture Courtesy: 9Lines Facebook Page /Instagram

 From school accesories to Laptop bags to summer sunnies, 9Lines take temeracious to a whole new level.

   Coco by Zara ShahJehan also comes along with the same hues and vibes in pret-a-porter.

  Paired with uber-trendy cropped trousers these Kurtis are a must have for this fall.

Stripes All The Way In

Stripes are definitely dominating prints this summer and probably would remain for fall and winters too.
Stripes are extremely forgiving to the silhouette of a normal Pakistani girl. Moreover the way they can be styled infinitely. Be it maxis, skirts, kurtas, frocks or trousers.
Here are just a few ways to work stripes out.

This is how 'Elika' a brand focusing on empowering women puts it.

Outfitters add stripes to shirts and accessories for the trendy him and her.

Just get a shirt made with an attached statement necklace and rock an informal event together with a pair of denims.

A loose, full-sleeves stripe shirt to give you a elegant, chic look.  Pair it up with tights, slacks or cigarette pants for any formal or semi-formal event.